Fading patterns for denim:

Patterns of fading

We’ve mentioned numerous times across many posts about fades (we’ve even carved out our very own Fade Friday), but have never actually put in the time to talk a little bit about subject.  Not that a super long post is really needed, for those unfamiliar with fades, we figured it’s worthwhile to delve into the topic every so often.

Everyone has different approaches to how you should actually achieve surreal fade patterns, so we won’t get into that here.  In this post we’ll cover the two basic types of fades that you’ll usually see with all raw denim – Whiskers/Hige and Honeycombs.

Fades caused by prolonged periods of wear, without washing, have become the main allure for raw denim. The fading patterns are a way of personalizing the garment for each customer. These fades are categorized by certain names: 

• Whiskers – Faded streaks that surround the crotch area of the denim.

• Combs – Also known, as “honey combs” are the streaks of faded lines that are found behind the knee.

• Stacks – Produced by having the inseam of the denim hemmed a few inches longer than actual leg length. The extra fabric stacks on top of the shoe causing a fade to form around the ankle to calf area of the denim.

• Train Tracks – appears on the outseams of the denim. This fade showcases the selvedge by forming two sets of fades that resemble train tracks.

Compared to honey combs, whiskers, stacks, or wallet fades, train tracks are a more uncommon fade that occurs along the outseams of the jeans. As the denim wears, the outlines of the selvedge will be become more apparent, forming two sets of lines that resemble train tracks running up either leg.

As the outseams do not undergo as much stress and wear as other areas of denim, it is difficult to achieve this particular fade. Like anything, however, it is not impossible. To facilitate train tracks fades, consider flattening the outseam before you start wearing it.

Stone Wash

Denim is the most preferred clothing of today’s youth. Various items of denim like pants, shirts, skirts, jackets, belts and caps, etc, are available in the market. To give distressed denim look, many types of washing are given to denim fabric.

Pumice stone usage in stone wash
One of such washing is known as stone wash. In stone-washing the worn-out look is given purposely. The fabric is washed along with pumice stones. The stones and denim are spun together in large industrial washing machines. The longer they are spun together lighter the colour of the fabric with better contrasts would result. The time duration of this procedure is set beforehand so as to avoid the tear and wear of the fabric. Thereafter, the fabric undergoes various other processes of rinsing, softening and finally tumble-drying. These stone-washed fabrics are used for different purposes -- garment making as well as for upholstery purpose.

Disadvantages of pumice stone usage
Stone-washing the denim with pumice stones has some disadvantages. For instance, stones could cause wear and tear of the fabric, also it creates the problem of environmental disposition of waste of the grit produced by the stones. High labour costs are to be borne as the pumice stones and their dust particles produced are to be physically removed from the pockets of the garments and machines by the labourers. Denim is required to be washed several times in order to completely get rid of the stones. The process of stone-washing also harms big, expensive laundry machines.

Alternate methods for stonewashing
To minimise such drawbacks, stone-washing of denim is carried out with the aid of enzymes. The method of giving the denim a stone-wash look by use of enzymes like cellulase is known as- ‘Enzymatic Stone-washing’. Here cellulases are used to provide that distressed worn out look to the denim fabric.

Cellulase method
Cellulase is environmental-friendly compared to pumice stones. It reduces the percentage of damage caused to denim caused by the rough effect of stones on them. As there is huge demand of garments with distressed jeans look, stone washing with enzymes is being used increasingly. It is also known as bio-stone-washing. Enzymatic treatment has become another substitute for kilograms of stones, also the jeans stonewashed by this method has more shelf-life. It ensures the same result with minimum amount of water, waste, time, volume and damage to machines.

As jeans are made up of cellulosic fibres, the use of cellulase enzyme is successful in giving the stone wash look. This enzyme breaks down the surface cellulose fibres and removes them without causing harm to the jeans. Better finishing and look is achieved even with indigo dyed denim. In cellulase enzymatic wash, the denim is given an enzyme bath. Here certain amount of indigo dye and cellulose fibres are removed from the surface of the fabric. As enzymes are like yeast in nature, they eat the cellulose present in denims. When the jeans get the preferred colour, enzymatic reaction is stopped by changing the alkalinity of the bath or else the water is heated. Thereafter, the fabric undergoes rinsing and softening process. The number of rinsing process after enzymes treatment is less than pumice stone-washing. There is reduced amount of waste produced and overall costs for stone-washing is also less.

Disadvantages of cellulase treatment
There are certain disadvantages of cellulase treatment. It could leave marks of backstaining like blue threads becoming more blue or white threads becoming blue. To get rid of such unwanted re-coloration of threads, the jeans are rigorously washed adding surfactants to it. This process could result in colour-fading of jeans and there is added usage of water for the washing. Thus wastage of water and certain amount of backstaining could be experienced. The primary target of stone-washing the denim with pumice stones or enzymes is to provide the garment worn-out, old and aged look. Sometimes both stones and enzymes are used for the purpose.

Latest process of stone wash – Perlite
A new process of stone-washing has been found by a series of laboratory testings – Perlite. Perlite is the form of naturally occurring silicon rock. It has the distinctive property of expanding to 4 to 20 times its initial volume when heated at a particular temperature. This happens because the raw Perlite rock consists of 2-6% of water content in it. The crude Perlite rock when heated at the temperature above 870º C it gets swollen up and tiny glass sealed bubbles are formed. Its original colour which is black or gray changes to grayish white or else white. This heated form of Perlite is used for stone wash purpose.

It does the same function of stone-washing as stones. Perlite treatment reduces the rate of harm caused to large washing machines by pumice stones and gives the denim better supple and softer finish. Many jeans manufacturing companies, in the place of enzymatic treatment, use Perlite, which reduces the rate of wearing out of jeans when used. It gives throughout uniform worn-out and old look to the denim and not just the upper part of the garment. There are many grades of Perlite differing in sizes are used for giving the stone wash finish to denim right from largest to finest grades; some are very tiny just like grounded earth.

Modern stone-washed jeans, biostoneing technique 
At first stone-washing involved using pea gravel, but pumice was discovered to float around with the jeans instead of lying in the bottom of the water and so manufacturers have switched. Turkish stone is commonly used for their porosity and cleanliness. There is beautiful pumice from Sicily but the supply is limited. Most of us are familiar with “Stone-washed” jeans. As the name implies, freshly dyed jeans are loaded into large washing machines and tumbled with stones. Adding pumice stones gives the additional effect of a faded or worn look. The pumice abrades the surface of the jeans like sandpaper, removing some dye particles from the surfaces of the yarn. Pumice has been used since the introduction of stone-washed jeans in the early 1980s. 

However, stone-washing with pumice has some severe drawbacks. The quality of the abrasion process is difficult to control: Too little will not give the desired look. Too much can damage the fabric, particularly at the hems and waistbands. The outcome of a load of jeans is never uniform, with a significant percentage always getting ruined by too much abrasion. The process is also non-selective. Everything in the washing machines gets abraded, including the metal buttons and rivets on the jeans as well as the drum of the washing machine. This substantially reduces the quality of the products and the life of the equipment, and increases production costs. 

Rinse (water) wash 
This speaks for itself mostly. Like in the good old days the jeans will be washed at about 50º C. There is high risk of colour bleeding, so ideal to use for brightening up your old faded jeans by washing them together. One should make certain to wash separately from other garments the first few times. Some Jeans brands will not even use sanforized fabric, so that you can shrink them to fit in a hot bath. This was (again) very popular back in the 80s.

DENIM

DENIM FABRIC:


Denim is one of those ubiquitous fabrics that can be found in every corner of the world. Rugged, warm and durable, denim's popularity has soared in the last several decades, and is worn by people of all walks of life.
Denim fabric is made from cotton with a twill weave, in which the weft threads passes beneath two warp threads, resulting in diagonal ribs on the back side of the material. Imported from France in the late 18th Century, denim, originally known as “serge de Nimes”, after the French town of Nimes in which it was first produced, has evolved into a very “American” fabric. Denim was the fabric of choice during the California Gold Rush, as Levi Strauss produced a tremendously durable and versatile pant for the miners.


Denim fashioned into pants or trousers is referred to as jeans. The term “jeans” was derived from “blue de Genes”, or “blue of Genoa”, as the pants were sold in the port town as well as worn by the Genoese Navy, who required an all-purpose trouser for active duty. Jeans were relegated to the working world of factories, dude ranches and loading docks up to the 1950's, when teenagers began wearing the pants in protest of the slacks and dressier clothing of the previous generation. Jeans are now a fashion juggernaut, available in a wide array of cuts and finishes, with some extremely expensive brands featuring ornate decorative stitching and attached faux jewels.


Denim fabric is available in a host of weights and finishes, including some that incorporateSpandex for added stretch and comfort. Although blue is still the predominant color for denim clothing, stone washed gray and black have become popular alternatives. Denim's durability allows it to be machine washed many times over, although hanging to dry is recommended lest the material shrink.

Softening Process

                                   


SOFTENING PROCESS

Softening process of Denim is very critical. As denim is very heavy in compare with other fabrics hence its needs softening. During this process there is a big problem -the discoloration of denim i.e change in shade or loss of whiteness, giving a yellow tint is commonly known as yellowing. By using normal softener will lead to ozone problem. Indigo dyed fabric are even more prone to yellowing.

As it’s a widespread problem & there in no single reason for its cause. Instead a number of condition can singly or in combination lead to the problem. Yellowing in not specific to certain fibers, finishes or washing processes. It is not specific to chemicals or chemical treatment but certainly some of the factors among these can lead to the yellowing. As cotton & all organic polymers develop yellowing in time.

Light , acids, impurities, detergents & chemical contribute to yellowing problems.

Temperature of drying & curing can impart yellowing due to scorching of the cotton. Therefore good control must be used to minimize this type of damage.

Hence its advisable to use Antiozonate softener which prolong ozone reaction of Indigo & keep garment in good condition.

MINIMISATION OF YELLOWING RISK:

Its Impossible to eliminate yellowing but it is possible to prolong & reduce the conditions which causes classical yellowing:

· Ensure bleaching neutralization & rinsing is proper

· Minimize back staining

· Avoid use of chemicals which cause yellowing

· Avoid leaving garment in open air for longer time

· Control drying & curing temperatures

· Using right Antiozonate softener with right pH

Green Initiative (Indilite Wet Processing)

As we all know that Microgenix has taken Green Initiative and introduced a revolutionary advancement in garment processing which has unparalleled the potential of water conservation and energy savings and possibly change the future of textile processing and garment washing...

The link below will guide you to the recipe...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=9jTpfT9hs1U

Denim : The evergreen fabric

                                                             obsessed with quality 

What is Denim?

Denim (which gets its name from the French for "from Nîmes" (de Nîmes) is a rugged cotton twill textile, in which the weft passes under two (twi- "double") or more warp threads. This twill weaving produces the familiar diagonal ribbing of the fabric, which distinguishes denim from cotton duck. 

It is characteristic of any indigo denim that only the warp threads are dyed, whereas the weft threads remain plain white. As a result of the warp-faced twill weaving, one side of the fabric shows the blue warp threads, the other side shows the white weft threads. This is why jeans are white on the inside and what makes denim's fading characteristics unique compared to every other fabric.

We at Microgenix have always tried to offer a unique and comprehensive range of products for denim understanding the needs of our valued customers.

Microgenix Offerings for Denim & other fabrics:

Microgenix offers a wide range and variety of products for denim and as well as other fabrics.

Categories 

• Neutral Enzymes/neutral cellulase
• Acid Enzymes/ Acid cellulase
• Anti Back Staining (ABS)
• Washing off agents
• Softeners
• Silicon Specialties

In a nutshell, microgenix offers all chemical solutions from pre-treatment to finishing for denim. Not just that, we offer solutions for other categories of textile and garments as well viz. knits and wovens.

The link below will give a detailed information about the products that are offered by Microgenix:

http://www.microgenix.co.in/microgenix-products.pptx

The Trendsetters - Why Microgenix is not just another textile chemical company (Part 1)

When we wake up everyday, there are two options at our disposal. Either to follow the existing trends or Create a New Trend.. we chose the later!

At Microgenix we believe in bringing a change, creating something new and more importantly adding value to our stakeholders interests. Over the years, as we explore our obsession with quality, we have constantly tried to prove a point - Quality and commitment above everything else.

When we say we intend to create a trend, the words are simply not put to beautify our website or brochure. Today, we feel happy to discuss a few of our initiatives which make us feel proud of ourselves, the brand Microgenix and You - our stakeholders and well-wishers who have always been with us throughout our journey.

1) The Green Initiative:

We strive to make the earth a cleaner, greener and safer place. Last year on environment day, we came up with a unique eco-friendly product which had the potential to save trillions of litres of waters in the denim industry as well as reduce the carbon footprint by reducing CO2 emissions. Today we are glad to share that some reputed denim manufacturers have already adopted this change. We thank them for being with us in our constant endeavor to protect our environment.

For more on Microgenix Indilite, pls visit this video: Click here to open youtube video.

Indilite makes us the first company from the inustry  in the country to successfully launch such a revolutionary and eco-friendly product.

Apart from this, as you already might be knowing, all our offerings are GOTS approved, REACH compliant, LABSA free, APEO/NPEO free and successfully being used globally for years.

2) The Social Media Initiative:

Perhaps, the reason you are reading this is our social media team. We feel that in the last two years that this team has been active, the most important contribution it made towards the industry is the Textile Discussion Forum. A facebook group consisting of 2600+ textile professionals is the largest such facebook forum uniting all of us who are part of the textile/denim/fashion industry.

We feel glad to share that we are connected worldwide with 10000+  friends from the industry through our Facebook, Linkedin, Twitter, Google+ and other social media networks. It makes us the first company in the industry to be so widely connected on social media.

On the right hand side of this blog you will find links to our social networking profiles -->


In the next part of our blogpost, we will share more of our intiatives undertaken over the past years. Till then, stay blessed and thank you for your time!